1 – The best falafel is found not at Hashem but at Abu Jbara (not the chain) off of Second Circle, behind the Belle Vue hotel. Their crispy little nuggets contain even more spice and flavor than Hashem’s, and they serve equally tasty hummus, mutabbal, and the like. What’s a bit odd is that if you sit indoors, you have to buy the falafel yourself from the shop next door, whereas if you sit outside, sometimes servers will bring it to you. It is worth the minor hassle, though.
They are nestled in the dirty corners of doorsteps and abandoned alleys, dropped haplessly by the roadside, even hung off of dumpsters. These are bags of uneaten bread, bread on which the government of Jordan will spend a whopping 260-290 million JD ($367-410 million) subsidizing this year alone.
AMMAN—Ziad had already donned his white onesie, its front smeared like a painter’s smock with bits of wax and honey as it rested over his Santa-like paunch. His 17-year-old assistant, Adnan, loaded buckets of sugar water into the bed of a pickup so ancient you could see the road through a hole in the passenger side floor.
A dumpling-like dessert made only during Ramadan, the qatayif is a magical combination of textures and flavors. You can watch how they’re made below.
AMMAN–As the sun sank closer to the horizon, the hostess emerged from the kitchen hoisting a circular platter about one meter in diameter and heaped with mensaf, the national dish of Jordan. Mensaf is one of my favorite dishes—ever—but that evening something else caught and held my attention.
“I love you,” he crooned, in English and just loud enough for me to hear.
I stopped in my tracks, unusually incensed, and in a split second had spun around. Enough was enough.
makes crossing this
With gas at nearly 4.50 USD per gallon,** you would think that Jordanians would be fleeing the streets (or perhaps taking to them?). Continue reading
Jordan is a special place for many reasons. One of them is the level of trust, faith and goodwill people frequently display towards each other, whether friend or stranger.
Amman, Jordan–How can I describe the sensation and experience of packing your life into a medium suitcase, a small duffel and a backpack, hopping on a plane and moving indefinitely to a foreign country?
Saying goodbye was emotionally brutal, bearable only because returning to Amman as a journalist (I studied here during college) is so exciting and a move I’ve wanted to make for nearly two years. Still, handling such conflicting emotions is exhausting, so despite my sadness at leaving my family and friends, finally boarding the plane to Jordan was almost a relief.
thanks for visiting! use the tabs above to check out my writing and bio.